Forum

CRAIGS LISTING OF A STILETTO 27

http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/col/boa/2417307702.html

HANGALEN

STILETTO 27 CHAMPIONSHIP SERIES

LOOKING FOR LEAF SPRINGS/DECK LINER

Does anyone know where I can find the correct leaf springs for a Stiletto 27 trailer?

Also looking for the rubber lining that wraps around the bridge deck and wedges between it and the hulls.

Lastly, would love advice on setting up a roller furling on the same S27. Especially a less expensive alternative to Harken?

Also looking for cockpit cushions.

Han
http://www.FlyGirlVI.com

Replied: BobKlein

Stiletto 27 standard

Replying to Han Winogrond comments: My HARDING Trailer does not have the slipper springs but rather it has both ends linked to the frame with the equalizer in the center. Tows like a dream. Check out this link for parts.

http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Suspension-sf-Suspension_Kit.aspx

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Han Winogrond comments: We have a good source for the slipper springs and cockpit gasket. Let me know what you need.

frankc

stiletto 27 se

SPEED UNDER POWER

My 27 has a 6hp motor. Does anyone know how much faster the boat will motor with an 18 or 20hp motor?

Replied: Peter

Modified Stiletto 27

Replying to Frank Ciufia comments: It's been a while since we checked it, but Deuce Coupe has an 18hp and, as I recall, does about 12-13 knots. It's definitely a bit faster than the local boats with Johnson, Evinrude or Mercury 15hps on them. Our other boat, Dream Date has a 25hp, and it does (I think) 15 knots. Interestingly,if you move someone to the bow while motoring at top speed, the Stiletto 27 will go up to a knot faster. The 25 has so much power that we have to be careful with the trim angle. If the motor is tilted too far down, it will pick the back of the boat up, quickly followed by the prop cavitating. The 25 is a pull start, and can be a bit of a bear for smaller framed people to start. The 2 cycle Nissan 18 we have is an absolutely fantastic motor for the boat. Since it's designed for a planing powerboat, we re-prop'd it with a flatter prop to get the revs up. We have thoroughly abused it, and it just keeps starting on the first or second pull. My favorite feature is that it is much better than any other motor I've experienced on a Stiletto at reattaching the flow around the prop, when it cavitates going through a wake. It's VERY rare to have to reach back and slow the motor to get the flow reattached. The bad news is that I don't think Nissan makes the motor anymore.

Replied: Tango

Stiletto 27

Replying to Frank Ciufia comments:
Take the square root of the ratio of powers, and you will be pretty close to it. 18hp/6hp=3. Sqrt of 3 is approx 1.7: under calm water( no waves), no wind, no current, you will be approx 1.7 times faster than with your 6hp. NB: this would not work for a monohull!!!

Replied: 2hulls

Stiletto 23

Replying to Paul Lavallee comments: In real life didn't find this to be true at all. On my S-23 I use a Johnson 4 hp. I go 8-8.5 mph. My friend has the same motor on his S-27. With that motor he does 7-7.5 mph. He also has a 10 hp Honda. With the 10 hp motor he does 8.5-9 max. We even tried a new prop with a different pitch. Same speed. Based on your formula the boat should do close to 12 mph. Doesn't happen.

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Jim Moyer comments: I agree, we ran an 8HP 2-stroke Tohatsu on my 27GT for years and it would average 8-9 knots on the GPS in flat water. The 9.9 and 15 hp 4-strokes made about 8 at best.
They get better fuel economy, and are more eco-friendly, but let's face it, we are going out to put up our sails and kill the iron jib.
If there is no wind it is time to go fishing or swimming!

Replied: 2hulls

Stiletto 23

Replying to Ron Nicol comments: Ron, I agree. My motor weighs 36 pounds and as long as it has enough power ( 8 mph ) to get me away from the dock and out the harbor its fine. I want to sail. Reduced weight equals faster sailing.

Replied: frankc

stiletto 27 se

Replying to Jim Moyer comments: Thanks guys. I don’t know what my 6hp weighs, but it works fine. Once in a while I want to scoot over to a cove near my marina by way of motor only; this is because of wind direction or lack of wind altogether. The stiletto is a great “hang out in the cove” boat as well as a great sailing machine. I was thinking of moving from the 6 to a 15 or 20 (no one seems to make the 18 anymore. All of these new motors are pretty heavy though, about 110 to 125 lbs. I may just keep things as they are.

thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

MOB PRACTICE...A FEW QUESTIONS

MOB practice

When sailing off shore, I have routinely practiced man-overboard drills, with the variety of crews I've hosted, usually in very calm conditions.

MOB practices are interesting, fun, potentially useful and may even save a life.

Most of the time we've practiced ensuring one person is tasked with the sole responsibility to have "eyes on" at all times.

Others take up the responsibility of throwing out the MOB float and flag with chem light, activating the GPS's MOB feature, throwing out a trailing line if it isn't already deployed, getting the boat slowed down and coming about, etc.

Though we've thought about it, we've never practiced getting the man back on board...particularly if unconscious.

I've thought we'd tether and throw the dingy off the foredeck, then retrieve the MOB into the dingy and then onboard. That way, if there was a time-lapse in getting the MOB onboard, at least they'd be out of the water, for warming or CPR, etc.

I've thought about using the boom and main or spinnaker halyard for a lifting derrick to lift and swing the MOB onboard.

I've even thought about using the jib sail foot, lashed to the toe rail and the main winch and jib halyard fixed to the jib sail head as a means to lift and roll the MOB onboard.

Any of the rest of you actually tired any of this or another approach that worked for you????

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Tom House comments: i have practiced m.o.b rescue with cushions which deals more with how to keep the object in sight and not lose it than rescue. with our type of boat,that has high decks, what do stiletto guy/gals practice to get them selves back in the boat should they find themselves over board. physical capability seems to be most important. i sail without a crew and since moving to a location where two boats can be seen in a three hour sail this has come to mind.
anyone with suggestions?

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Tom House comments: I think you should wear safety harnesses with jack lines running all the way around the boat fore and aft around the beams. That way if you capsize you can still stay with the boat and have a much greater chance of survival.

Replied: thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

Replying to Ron Nicol comments:

Ron, good call on the jack lines and safety tether when sailing off shore.

In retrospect, I really wished I had rigged those jack line and safety tether safety features, when caught and sailing in that last gale.

On that occasion, we had some calf-level boarding (green water) seas wash over the length of the Stiletto 27.

When we rigged and lay to the sea anchor, We still had green water occasionally wash over the entire length of the boat, though far less often.

On the sea anchor, I wish that (in addition to the tethers and jack lines I wish I would have rigged and deployed a 100-200 foot trailing line, with safety float (w/ attached glow stick), behind the boat.

Then, if we would have had a crew member wash or fall off the boat, that trailing line (w/safety float and glow stick) would have given the MOB a chance at assisting in MOB retrieval, by (perhaps) clinging to the trailing line/float.

Without the MOB's assistance, Im not at all confident, we could have found a way to get the boat off the sea anchor and around to re-locate and retrieve the MOB.

I don't think the outboard was strong enough to muscle the boat around in the gale and retrieve a MOB...and I think re-hoisting sails would have been down right dangerous.

As a matter of fact, we fouled the prop, when we used the outboard to release tension of the sea anchor line, even after all the action was over and the winds and seas were calming.

Without the assistance of the outboard, it took forever to get the sea anchor onboard and stowed.

After that was cleared, reefed main and blade jib made the boat very manageable when we finally got back underway, while in still fairly rough conditions, after the brunt of the gale passed.

Though I can calk tall that up to lessons learned and experience, it would have been much better to have successfully avoided all that...altogether.

Replied: BobKlein

Stiletto 27 standard

Required reading for Multihull safety

http://www.regattanetwork.com/clubmgmt/regatta_uploads/3253/ORCACOASTALEQUIPMENTLIST.pdf

If you are going to wear a harness/jackline make sure you have access to a really sharp knife.

Replied: thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

Replying to Bob Klein comments:

Great info. guys, thanks. I also enjoyed that link and its added info.

Anyone ever actually simulated and then tried to get an unconcious or hyper-thermic person back onto a Stiletto?

That's probably my next goof-off project to help expand my practical expereince level before my next trip across Mexico's Sea of Cortez.

That last gale, didn't spook me, but it certainly helps keep things like equipment avaiability and condition, practice and preparation in perspective.

Tom

WAYNE

stilleto

CASTERS FOR THE EXTENSION ARMS 4 27' TRAILER

any body out there have an idea where new casters can be had for the extension arms of the Stiletto 27 trailer. the caster wheels would be those that are inside the telescoping extensions.

it may seem odd but the boat is out of the water for the summer and this is one of my projects. the internet has been of little help so far on this. we have exchanged the Baja heat for San Diego's. it is ever so much better.

Replied: bo

Stiletto 27

Replying to Doug Landis comments: I used steel casters from northern tool for the inners http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_40246_40246
Drilled out the centers.
for the outside I used the rubber coated steel casters for the better bearings used.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_40246_40246 I beefed up the tab mounts and went up to the 4in casters
Adam

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Adam Bohnenblust comments: thanks for your response it got me thinking about what i needed. decided to to go with a wheel without bearings. i looked at northern tool products catalog but was frustrating myself with trying to find exactly same replacement.
doug
hope there is good wind the last six weeks i had two days of sailing.

Replied: BobKlein

Stiletto 27 standard

Replying to Doug Landis comments: Just make sure the bushing material is bronze and not steel or it will rust and sieze after first submersion.

Replied: thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

Replying to Bob Klein comments:

Bob, as an engineer, what would you estimate the load on the extension-arm rollers, when the arms are fully extended?

It appears the rear rollers have less weight on them than the front ones.

Inquiring minds need to know this stuff, as we're considering replacements, now the mast is freshly painted, standing tall and proud and waiting for this week end's first sail of the season.

Thanks,

Tom

Replied: Peter

Modified Stiletto 27

Replying to Tom House comments: When the boat is fully on the trailer, the front rollers take more load than the back ones. As you launch the boat, once the keel clears the front rollers, the entire weight of the boat is on the back roller assemblies. Depending on how your boat is loaded, that's about 2,000#.

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Peter Wormwood comments: That is true, however if you are launching or retrieving the boat from a good ramp, the rear rollers do not take alot of load because the stern of the boat is floating off the trailer and only becomes loaded when hauled out .
Therefore if you don't roll the boat off the trailer on the hard it will not load the rear roller and compress the keel. Ron

Replied: BobKlein

Stiletto 27 standard

Replying to Ron Nicol comments: Roughly speaking, the rear and front roller loads are worst case when on pavement. When the boat stern floats free the rear roller loads go to zero and the front roller loads remain the same as they are still only supporting the front of the boat.

If we assume each beam supported #750 lbs, and the distance from the hull support roller to the extension end caster was 4 ft, and the distance between the extension end caster to the trailer extension support caster was 1 foot, then the loads on the trailer extension support caster would approx. be #3000

All dimensions are guesses as my triler is at home and I (sigh) am at work!

What's really scary is that if you were to drive fast across a rough railroad crossing then the "G" loads could be in the range of 40-90 (depending on spring rate, tire pressure, vehicle velocity, etc). The loads on the rollers skyrockets. This is why it is VERY IMPORTANT that you pin the extension arms in place so that the load is carried by the trailer frame and NOT the roller.

Replied: frankc

stiletto 27 se

Replying to Bob Klein comments: Yes! The point Bob is making is a good one. The two rollers are close to each other when the boat is 14 ft wide. This really puts the pressure (weight) on those rollers. Even if you pin the trailer as you should, that inside roller is feeling a lot of pain. When I am assembling the boat and climbing around up there I know those wheels are getting squished. I don’t think I ever found wheels rated for the load they are seeing.

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Frank Ciufia comments: We got some 3" aluminum round stock and cut them up on a cutoff saw like a hockey puck and then drill a 1/2" hole in the middle. These do not wear out. Ron

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Ron Nicol comments: like that idea and while i have wondered what the the load the wheels should be rated for, is it seven hundred pounds? i found wheels three inch wheels with 1/2 center holes and the load rating is four hundred pounds. surely they have two ratings working and breaking loads. the wheels i found seem to be of the same synthetic compound as they wheels to be replaced and except for the bushing /bearing being ruined there still seem ready to go for years.

after you make your puck what do you use to press the wheel in place with?

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Doug Landis comments: Unfortunately few suppliers publish
Safe working Load and Breaking Strength, besides Harken and Wichard.
These also have a small safety factor for those that push the envelope. I do not have the data to say a strong wheel rated at 400 lbs would not work to haul a 2000 pound boat. However the lever action Bob is talking about when the boat is telescoped can increase the load geometrically and with added gear and crew on the boat I would say it would need to be much higher. So, why not make them solid aluminum with no bearing. Just put some tef-Gel on a nice new SS bolt with a locknut on the outer roller and a SS press pin on the inners. Obviously you cannot bolt the inner ones. That's what I've gotten out of thirty years with messing around with Stilettos!
Amazingly enough we still see the original poly rollers that work and have not split in two. Go Figure?! Salt vs. Freshwater!!!!

Replied: cliff

Stiletto 30

Replying to Ron Nicol comments:Ron do you stock the wheels?And how much are they?Thanks

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Cliff White comments: I will check on Monday and see if we have any left. I think we used them up on the last trailer we rebuilt. Give me a call next week. Ron

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Ron Nicol comments: We have some 3" solid aluminum wheels with the 1/2" hole. I was looking at a trailer we are working on, and noticed it would not fit in the slot. The channel the arm slides into will only receive a 2-3/4" wheel. And the center pin is smaller. Therefore only the outer wheels can be a full 3" with the 1/2 center hole or it will not work. The original wheel on the trailer says 3" by Fairbanks, See what you can find and let me know.

Replied: thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

Replying to Ron Nicol comments:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_40248_40248

Fairbanks 3in. Swivel 1000-Lb. Capacity Steel Caster for around $8

They have no 2 3/4 inch casters listed

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Tom House comments:

the wheel in my hand measures( inside wheel off the trailer) 2 7/8" outer diameter. the pin is steel with a 1/2" diameter almost 2" or 1 and 15/16 long.

at the grainger web site i found a 1/2" dowel which would have been the final piece of the puzzle for me, unless 3" is not the right size? some one replied the dowel/press pin should be made of brass or it will seize up?
synthetic sounds better than steel
aluminum sounds better than synthetic. what is the consensus on this?

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Doug Landis comments: To reply to all of you in one post,
I have the 3" solid wheels with 1/2" hole, these are too large diameter for the inner wheels as far as I can see on the Harding trailers we have. They need to be 2-3/4 or 2-7/8 to roll smoothly in the channel. They do not need bearings, but must be maintained with tef-gel or at least white lithium grease after launching the boat;pull the arms and lubricate the rollers, don't just park it for 6 months and expect it to work perfectly next time. They were originally press fit pins and tack welded and grind smooth. This made it very clean for the sliding in and out without jamming up.
No grease is needed on the arms to mess up your favorite shorts!
I am still looking for the smaller wheels or will have some made.
I do not know how much they will cost, but probably $25 ea, from aluminum stock, drilled. I would not use steel, they won't last
especially if they see saltwater.

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Ron Nicol comments:
having gone through the archive to find information on the wheels for the extension arm and having in the past telephoned to find out if those wheels were available through your company i struck out. no one offered the name of the company for replacement wheels. the very best information has been offered this last week.

though premature but to cheer you up here is what i found today, durable is the brand brimstone is the type of synthetic wheel that is salt water resistant. i am ordering some or at least one. while i am still waiting for a third response from the distributor, the tenth i have contacted, to get prices and verify the specs it seemed like a good idea to share this information with you. having no idea what my wheels were made of you gave me the clue phenolic. if the wheel has a working load of 400 plus pounds i am going to try them out until aluminum is available.

the information you provided has been invaluable in locating the wheels.

my observation is most everyone on the sight over thinks the subject with engineer talk. there are no synthetic wheels that meet the specks talked about here but the wheels we have had on the trailers have lasted years at what ever load they are rated.

maybe you could keep a few on hand. the wheels on my boat trailer are as old as my youngest and should these last as long it seems, so far, to be a good solution.

you are the go to guy and if you had them i would buy them from no one else. everyone? was offended though when you used the word cheap.

doug landis

Replied: thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

Replying to Doug Landis comments:

Luff is the back of the sail and leach the front.

I remember it by noting that when the sail is luffing...it is the back of the sail that flaps. The front can't luff, because it is attached to the rigid mast.

Replied: 2hulls

Stiletto 23

Replying to Tom House comments: Not correct. The luff is the front of the sail which slides into the luff groove of the mast. The leech is the back of the sail and is attached to the back of the boom with the clew grommet.

Replied: thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

Replying to Jim Moyer comments:

Ooops...

Of course your're correct.

My mistake.

Thanks for the correction.

This open forum is a grand place for the exchange of ideas and information about sialing and Stilettos.

Well, back to fixing the water line to our place and then finisning the Stiletto set up for some sailing.

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Jim Moyer comments:

thank you very much. the luff groove will keep it straight in my mind.

up wind the boat does not point well but it comes about more easily for me than a hobie. love the feel of it with very few miles of experience. i have even had my feelings hurt when someone said "this boat can't go any where it points worse than a Catalina." he was not thrown over board.

i am happy in my bay doing circles, triangles and the like and am not competitive likely will not be but that is a subject i could benefit from, how to get the 27 to point higher?
this boat is stock from the factory.

getting the jib to come across without my aide would be good too. it gets hung up on the mast. the former owner demonstrated what to do but pulling it across each time can't be right.

storm jib no problem larger one hangs up.

next would be i have never worked a spinnaker

these are all beginner questions and i hesitate to ask or even expect response.

the questions guide this sight was my point and i am timid in asking about things that show ignorance and i don't think i am alone.

how to beat the corsairs would be a good topic for a series of "how to go fast. in my short time with the boat each owner of a corsair i met was arrogant and just a bother to be around. my boat was outnumbered six to one in the mast up storage area.

my boat has a big fat teardrop float on the top of the mast. i am never going to go fast. i will not turtle is my rationalization of leaving it there after i bought the boat.

a topic for the month might be a good idea, or a week.
someone with more experience than questions to ask would be the guide for this.

the wheels deal got a lot people to respond.
little things we can do to beat corsairs sounds good.

the wheel distributor salesman i think did not want to be bothered with selling eight wheels and never responded with the info on load bearing or price. the stuff the wheels are made of was found. phenolic or brimstone are the materials. brimstone is salt water resistant and looks identical to the wheels on my boat.
after the holiday thee should be some more e-mail responses on the subject.
thanks for the response.

doug landis

Replied: 2hulls

Stiletto 23

Replying to Doug Landis comments: Doug, We all were beginners at one time and the only way to get information is to ask. There is no stupid question when one is trying to find an answer. I think any question you have regarding the Stiletto will be answered by members here in a friendly, helpful way. You should feel free to ask any question you need an answer to. If you would be more comfortable asking questions off the Stiletto site feel free to e-mail me. I will be more than happy to give you whatever advice you need or tell you where to get it.
Jim

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Jim Moyer comments: I try to help everyone who likes to sail. I sail with kids, old people, friends and enemies. If I can help anyone learn how to sail and operate their Stilettos safer and faster, I will try. We used to have a newsletter monthly called the MAINSHEET.In this we had several columns includind the "Racer's Edge"
Peter Wormwood wrote about the latest go-fast techniques and other subjects. If anyone would like to resurrect the Mainsheet, let me know and I will send the copies I have to give you an idea of the layout, or you can redesign it and set it up differently. Fair Winds!
Happy 4th of July!!!

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Ron Nicol comments:

i hardly know you but i am willing to volunteer my time and the ideas you have along with jim moyer's.

my ignorance could be the guide for discovery.
first topic how to point higher.
or how to set up the rigging or how to retrieve a man over board.

this sites archive is a good source of info. maybe a from the archive note.

the two of you are a vast store house of un-cataloged information and i love to write. there should be from my observation of who participates on this site another at least a dozen people who have the experience to make boats behave better, or have discovered interesting you tube postings we can benefit from. the fiber glass work shared on the site was magic to me.

doug landis

Replied: cliff

Stiletto 30

Replying to Doug Landis comments: You would use a stainless pin,they are welded on both sides.

Replied: thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

Replying to Ron Nicol comments:

I really like the notion of using solid wheels, made from slicing round stock into puks and boring out the center to accept a stainless bolt/pin.

Ron, if you find you still have some, some of the rest of us would be interested in cost.

If you don't, we'd still be interested in who has the capability to supply a set of 8 (4 inners and 4 outers) and the cost.

Thanks,

Tom

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Bob Klein comments: thanks for the memory jog. that is exactly what happened to the wheels i am taking off. i would bet they worked not more than four years of the age of the boat. they are a composite of some kind and are worn flat on one side from the friction of being slid in and out during operation. probably flat as result of the vibration of being towed as well.

Replied: wsreed

Stiletto 27

Replying to Doug Landis comments: For the casters on the inside of the sliding tube how do you remove them? I can't even see a place to tap out the axle or drill. All 4 of mine are just sliding and not rolling. How did they make these?

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Bill Reed comments: just in case you have not figured it out yet, I used a center punch and a two pound hammer. cleaning the grease off of the sliding support i found a slight outline of the press pin. one side of the sliding support arm is completely smooth where the press pin holds the wheel in place the other has a dent. two punches were used. the biggest punch was slightly smaller than the 1/2" press pin
the second was 1/4" and easily pushed the pin through the other side of the sliding arm. pleased with the results of that part of the project because more than one person said the process was long and hard i am facing as is everyone talking on this project(exceptions not included) the anxiety of finding a wheel. so far key words are plain bore, 1/2" press pin and why did i ever think this was easy. Randy Nicol makes it sound simple get a 3" aluminum round bar a cut off saw and make hockey pucks then drill a 1/2 hole if i could find a half inch press pin i would buy the aluminum bar at $80. and resolve the issue. my other solution was to buy a mechanical cable wench at harbor freight after all, the arms were sliding, they were just trying to give me a hernia. fooled them.
i have the summer to figure this out and as a last resort may just put the wheel back in place and rely on the cable wench.
im sure this is of little help but it has been interesting reading all of the comments. let me know what you did, someone out there besides Randy has a solution with wheels that are correctly rated to bear the weight. i found wheels rated at four hundred pounds that seemed perfect, guessing the breaking load was well beyond the rated load at http://www.mcmaster.com/#caster-wheels/=cu4ugn but after reading everything posted i am still looking.

Replied: frankc

stiletto 27 se

Replying to Bill Reed comments: I will throw my 2 cents in. I have been through this a few times. On my first stiletto, the rollers were stuck and flat on top. I did some research, found some nice caster wheels and put them on. The inside wheels had to be grinded out, new pins (axels) made and re-welded back in. It worked OK but I soon afterward I had to sell the boat. My current stiletto: same issue- the wheels were stuck and were not turning. I Googled caster wheels and spoke to a few folks that knew a lot more about wheels than I did. I cut, grinded, welded and so forth and the wheels worked OK for a couple of years (2 or 3) but there are a few issues you should be aware of. There is a tremendous load on the wheels when the boat is extended. If your boat (on the trailer) seems real close to touching the fenders on your trailer the pins (axels) may have moved down some. This happened on both of my boats. The ½” hole elongated, probably from wear or sloppy assembly. Also welding the pins in, if you are as bad a welder as I am, can be tricky if you have poly type wheels. This year when I uncovered my boat this year the wheels were flat on the tops and I was ticked. I was thinking about designing a gizmo to take the load of the wheel when it (the wheel) is not actually needed. Oddly enough the trailer expanded pretty well even with the stuck, flat wheels. So this summer I will most likely replace the wheels all together and go with a Teflon or hard plastic slide. I have started designing this but I have not executed it yet. When I do I will be happy to share it with anyone interested.

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Frank Ciufia comments
having entertained myself with the search for the perfect wheel i found the perfect wheel,meeting stress loads etc,is four inches tall not three inches. or three inches tall and 1 15/16" wide made of phenolic. not even a possible fit for our need.

the wheels that are on my trailer are made of phenolic and have been on the trailer since? i have no idea how long, but longer than a few years.

phenolic is the material of the current wheels on the trailer and the wheel can be had at grainger on line Mfr. Grainger Item #5VR53 Model #HE0304108G it is bearing less or clean bore fits a press pin or axle of 1/2". has 600lb rating. it is not a perfect fit being 1.5" wide. a little sanding should solve that.

what material were the wheels made of that you tried?

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Doug Landis comments: Thanks for the info on the rollers,
I have tried several sources as well and ended up making the 3" Alum.
wheels custom. It will be nice to get some off the shelf if they fit.
Let us know before we go and order some. Ron

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Ron Nicol comments:

i have ordered one wheel and will find out if it will apply to our needs.

curious idea though, have you thought of using phenolic for fabricating the wheel? it comes in sheets 1.25" `12x12" would a hole saw make a satisfactory wheel or is machining necessary?

also some extremely strong synthetic material comes in three inch rods.
great for making hockey pucks. some are self lubricating and like phenolic are used for making gears and rollers that with stand high psi. about the same price as aluminum. thirty to eighty dollars a foot.

doug landis

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Doug Landis comments: I thought about just turning down a hockey puck we had laying around, but I think it would get flat spots from the constant pressure on the arms. They are very resilient, but not made for that type of load. Let us know! Ron

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Ron Nicol comments:
that would be great something as simple as a hockey puck being a solution.

i was thinking of 3" delrin rod or aceltal rod md nylon rod or natural ultem rod. all of these have replaced or can replace steel in certain applications. peek rod the most expensive at $550 per 3" rod foot would produce a wheel at about sixty eight dollars per wheel or eight wheels per foot. tech sheet indicates it could out last steel in our application. no lube required.
natural uhmw rod is six times more abrasion resistant than steel. impervious to the sea also barnacles and the like.

these products are cost effective when compared to off the shelf wheels that meet our needs. i plan on trying, as an experiment, the nylon its a possibility at a wheel cost less than aluminum or the same. will let you know.

Replied: BobKlein

Stiletto 27 standard

HOCKEY PUCKS WILL NOT WORK! I know! I Tried! They are made of a hard durometer rubber material. I replaced one arm's worth. As soon as the weight load of the hull was applied the rubber deformed (flattened on the bottom, and small cracks started radiating from the pin outward.

Aluminum disks could work but you need to deal with the galvanic issue. Surrpounded by all that steel, when wet with sea water the Aluminum will act as the sacrificial anoed (like the zinc on your outboard), and start desolving.

Nylon might be a good choice but has the issue of absobing water and swelling, causing binding of the center pin unless a sloppy fit is machined.

Delrin is a much better choice but pric ey.

Phenolic makes a lot of sense.

Has anyone considered molding/potting some up with Fiberglass and epoxy. Simple mold. cheap material. A cylinder mold (with filled with short CSM fibers, high density phenolic microspheres and epoxy will handle the compressive loads easily. The center bolt hole could be a SS tubing sleeve pre-embedded in the mold. The outer rim of the mold could be a larger SS pipe section. Clean and sand the interior of the SS for good adhesion. A simple vacuum chamber would pull out any entrained airbubbles from the mix. Final product would be a roller with a SS wear capable rim and bolt hole held inplace with CSM/epoxy. Shouold last FOREVER! and you can make it in your basement. Exact dimensions unnecessary as long as all are the same.

Hummmmmmm. sounds like a plan. If my rollers weren't almost new, I'd do it this way.

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Bob Klein comments:

my question is after the hockey puck adventure what did you use for the rollers.
several people mention they have found (looking in the archives) replacement wheels no one gives info on manufacturer or success with the change.
fairbanks was stamped on one of the wheels but they claim no wheel of the needed dimensions are available or manufactured.

WPHXKK3.112XXXN3S is the parts number for a phenolic wheel 600lb load bearing capabilities. the price is cheap at $3.00 making the risk of loss worth the trial. 3x 1 1/2" wheel is at stanley e smith co.
i thought Peek rod would be perfect better than steel but its $1000 a foot. a little sanding and this one seems to be a good choice. previous source for same wheels stats was twenty dollars.

now how do i get my main to go up more smoothly. it seems when its almost raised the effort to pull it up increases ten fold. does anyone use mast slides?

Replied: BobKlein

Stiletto 27 standard

Doug, ?When my hockey puck adventure went south, I met up with a previous Stiletto 27 owner who happened to have a complete set of new Harding trailer rollers still sitting in his basement. I quickly purchased them and have had no roblems since.

Replied: BobKlein

Stiletto 27 standard

Doug, When my hockey puck adventure went south, I met up with a previous Stiletto 27 owner who happened to have a complete set of new Harding trailer rollers still sitting in his basement. I quickly purchased them and have had no roblems since.

Replied: BobKlein

Stiletto 27 standard

Doug, for raising your main easily perform the following;
1. Clean your mast main boltrope track
2. Clean your mast main boltrope track
3. Clean your mast main boltrope track

DO NOT USE WD-40!

Now with a clean track, inspect for any nicks, roughness etc. fix accordingly with fine sand paper/fin=les/etc.

4. Clean your mast main boltrope track on last time.

5. Spray track with McLube SAILKOTE (at least four coats with a couple of minutes dry time between coats).

Spray boltrope with the same 3-4 coats of McLube SAILKOTE

You will be amazed at how easily raising and lowering just became.

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Bob Klein comments:

will clean the track until it is bristal and sterling? thanks.

wd40 is not on my list of cleaners or lubricants.

liked your wheel idea. creating our own phenolic wheel using glass makes it literally ten times stronger than the rag filled product offered by most manufacturers. interstate plastics has a spec sheet section offering info on each plastic. problem they offer stats on glass filled phenolic but not the 3" rod.

my search for wheels is done but do you have any idea who the manufacturer is of the wheels you have now?
doug

Replied: thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

Replying to Doug Landis comments:

I have two mains. The old one has a bolt rope and the newer (replacement) main uses sail slides.

Personally, I like the sail slides much better.

They slide nicely.

the slides also allow me to use lazy jacks and to flake the main on top of the boom, then cover it with a sunbrella sail cover when not in use.

With the bolt rope, the sail must be completely removed from the sail track to bring the sail down and flaking it on top of the boom is not very easy when the main isn't attached to the mast.

One of my older beachcats has a bolt rope main that was retro-fitted with sail slides...so I guess the conversion is quite possible...and it couldn't cost that much.

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Caster wheels

all of the wheels listed below offer a 3” wheel 1 ½” wide with ½” bore. Most offer the clear bore. All have five hundred pound loads. Most are made of phenolic or a trademarked product of similar composition.
https://www.sescasters.com order number WPHXKK3.112XXXN3S

thermo caster wheel by Colson wheels 4.00003.812 HT c
500lb load salt water resistant. clear bore three inch wheel 1 ¼ wide ½” bore
National casters phenolic wheel clear bore 500lb load rating. Ncc Phs3145
stanley e smith co.
WPHXKK3.112XXXN3S is the parts number for a phenolic wheel 600lb load bearing capabilities. the price is cheap at $3.00 making the risk of loss worth the trial. 3x 1 1/2" wheel is
Grainger catalog has a wheel as well.
5vr53 he0304108g clear bore 1 ½” wide three inch wheel 600lb load.

the end.

Replied: Clayton

Stiletto 27 SE

Replying to Doug Landis comments: When raising the main, observe a few things. Is the cunningham attached? Is it completely loose? Is the main attached to the boom? If so, make sure the main sheet is very loose. Any thing attached to the sail will make it harder to raise. Even just a little pressure will do it. Next would be to check the luff groove near the top. Maybe something got in it. Also check the boltrope in the area where it starts to get tough.

With everything loose it should go all the way up without too much effort.

Replied: thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

Replying to Bob Klein comments:

Well, Bob:

Replacing my casters could be a worthy project and I happened to have all the materials on hand.

Do you have any (even generalized) suggestions on the "recipe" (aka proportions) for the chopped CSM fibers, high density phenolic microspheres and epoxy resin?

Replied: BobKlein

Stiletto 27 standard

Replying to Tom House comments:

Making your own casters should be easy. If I was going to attempt this, here's what I would do

Cut the required number of SS pipe/tubing (approx. 3" OD). This is going to form your mold. Take two plastic cutting boards and a 3" hole saw and drill both boards slightly to allow the l pipe sections to set into the groove cut my the hole saw. It is important that you match drill them as they will become the wheel side mold surfaces. Then drill/open the center hole so that the center SS tube will press through. This is the center pin support (OD roughened and cleaned with acetone). Set one board down on a flat surface. Place the center tubing pieces firmly into the board. Place the outer pipe hoops (with ID roughened and cleaned with acetone) into the board. Mix up the expoxy/milled glass flowing putty and fill up the wheel areas. (The mix should be 50/50 glass/epoxy by weight). Use the SLOWEST hardener to allow air bubbles to come to the surface). When all forms are full, place the second board on top of averything and put a nice weight on top. Leave for 24 hours. Break mold apart and remove wheels. Trim as required for use.

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Ron Nicol comments:
just so you know i didn't think a hockey puck would work but you described the three inch aluminum rod being cut into hockey puck sizes

the three inch rods of plastic material i was thinking of have replaced stainless steel, called called delrin or aceltel. md nylon is another natural peek at $550 a foot or $68. per wheel (eight wheels per rod foot) might seem too expensive but no lubrication and would probably last a 100years.

fun idea to try

Replied: cliff

Stiletto 30

Replying to Ron Nicol comments: I would say the aluminum is the best way to go,if needed they could be turned down to a perfect fit for the inner roller.You wont find this on the shelf.

Replied: wsreed

Stiletto 27

Replying to Frank Ciufia comments: Hi Frank and thanks for the reply.
I have been able to get 3 of the four inner wheels to rotate with some resistance. It looks like the plastic is just rotating around on the pin with no bearings at all on the ones that came on my used trailer. The 4th wheel broke in half and fell to the ground. Anyway my casters are not worn flat yet as I guess they never got much use.
The teflon in a good idea. I am going to try a few dirrent things as well. Any body else got any ideas or found anything that works for years in this application?

Replied: 2hulls

Stiletto 23

Replying to Frank Ciufia comments: Do like they do on the Reynolds 33 catamaran trailer. These are attached to each extension arm and take all the load off the rollers.You can also compensate for uneven ground. Jim
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-swing-back-trailer-jack-41005.html

Replied: BobKlein

Stiletto 27 standard

Replying to Doug Landis comments: Just make sure the bushing material is bronze and not steel or it will rust and sieze after first submersion.

Replied: cliff

Stiletto 30

Replying to Doug Landis
http://www.mcmaster.com/#caster-wheels/=cu4ugn

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Cliff White comments:
thanks for the help. i had found wheels for the trailers outside extension at a RV supply store. just eye balled it and found a fit. never found them again. plain bore was they key word. there is nothing to corrode. found the wheel on page 1343 of the mcmaster catalog. has a 1/2" axle so no drilling is necessary for fitting.

good sailing
doug

guymon

Stiletto 27 standard

AC - PLAYING HARD!

http://www.cnn.com/2011/SPORT/06/14/americas.cup.capsize/

Replied: thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

Replying to Guy Grafius comments:

Guy:

Awesome video clip. Thanks.

I once heard that speed is a funciton of money $$$$$.

The only question is, how fast do you want to go?????

I'll bet that concept applies to this very fancy, high-tec, very fast boat.

guymon

Stiletto 27 standard

PAINT JOB

Nice paint job from Sylvain Dorais on the Stiletto in the portfolio (Port 2011)!

Replied: Sylvain

Replying to Guy Grafius comments: Thanks, I'm pretty happy with it.

Stiletto 27

STILETTO 23

Does anyone know who owns the blue 23 in or around Grapevine lake near Dallas? I spotted her while I was crewing on a slug, no chance to get close and ask them.

Adam

MattZ

Stiletto 23

S 23 JIB

I know it's a long shot, but does anyone have a 95% jib for an S 23 laying around that they no longer need?

Replied: cliff

Stiletto 30

Replying to Matt Z comments: You looking for a hank on,zipper,or foil?And what size do you need I have a few jibs that are useable.

Replied: MattZ

Stiletto 23

Replying to Cliff White comments:
Hello Cliff. Hank or zipper would work. The luff needs to be about 26'5", the foot needs to be close to 71", leech about 26'.

I'm switching from the overlapping jib to self tacking so the clew needs to be in front of the mast. I do have a compression post so the luff could go below the bridle if necessary.

I have 2 jibs, both are standard foot length. The (one and only) sailmaker in town says he'll charge me the same to cut them down as he would for a new jib. He gave me a price for a new jib, asked no questions, knows nothing about cats, so he's out. I'll get a new one from Glaser, but there's a 5 week lead time, and he wants exact measurements after the self tacking track is done. 4 weeks now I'm waiting for the self-proclaimed world's greatest welder to weld 5 little tabs to mount the track to the crossbeam so I can finish that and get those measurements. At this rate summer will be over before I get a new sail, so I figured I'd try an appeal here.

By the way, you were right last year when you told me that fairing the hull / deck seam would keep me off the water until this year. When I put the boat together I left off the cheese slicer and jib blocks. I've been sailing main only, which hasn't panned out well in the usual 2 - 6 mph wind we get here in summer.

Replied: 2hulls

Stiletto 23

Replying to Matt Z comments: Matt, Why are you waiting for a welder? The traveler track you should be using has mounting holes pre-drilled into it for 1/4 20 screws. Just drill and tap your main beam. For a 95 % jib ( like mine ) the foot is 6 foot 10 inches with a slightly higher cut clew to give you the sheeting distance. You could go to about 27 foot 4 " ( if I remember right ) on the luff.
Jim

Replied: MattZ

Stiletto 23

Replying to Jim Moyer comments:
Jim, I'm making a curved track so I need the tabs to attach the standoff bars between the track and crossbeam. No one makes those tabs so I have to fab them. I had a straight track on a prior boat and wasn't too happy with it. I ended up having to put traveler control lines on it to pull the car out from center after each tack, so it defeated the purpose of self tacking. With a curved track you can just have one line in the center controlling how far out the car runs in either direction. Plus my rear tramp only has laces in the rear, so I'm limited on how I can run the jib sheet. It has to go over the main crossbeam, but under the track.

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Matt Z comments: Why don't you just drill and tap or rivet the standoff bars to the beam. Would be much easier. We can have a jib made foe you in 2-3 weeks. Let me know the measurements and material you want and we will Get R Done! Ron

thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

STANDING RIGGING BROKE

Well, it is about time to finally replace my standing rigging.

My mast came down when a turn buckle failed.

I could learn to hate those closed body turnbuckles.

They are probalby the orignnals and though I've rinsed the rig after ocean adventures, time finally took its toll.

One turn buckle failed a sixteeth of an inch just inside the body of the turn buckle....and snap...! down came the mast.

I abolutely hate it when that happens.

Luckliy, nothing was crushed, bent, broken or was lost...other than a bit of salty dog male ego.....and I wasn't in the middle of the Sea of Cortez or off shore from Southern Cal.

However, it was a bummer, none-the-less...and now I don't trust the rest of the turnbuckles either.

I figure I got as much mileage out of the stuff I had as was possible.

So Ron, how much will it cost me for both side stays, the forestay, bridle and the three assoicated turn-buckles and how soon can you ship?

The snow is finally off the Stiletto and its time to get the mast back up and to do some lake sailing on Bear Lake Idaho...unitl I can put together another off shore adventure.

Summer and some more sailing is awaiting receipt of that stuff.

Thanks,

Tom House
thouse@utah.gov
801-589-9596

Replied: lyfordg

Nothing at the moment

Replying to Tom House comments:
Hey Tom, Stainless steel is your best and toughest option, but I really like the synthetic rigging I have used on a Stiletto 23 shrouds and soon to be made for the forestay. People are obtaining the fittings and materials from: http://www.colligomarine.com/
There are some photos on my blog:http://www.construction-technologies.ca/Construction_Technologies/Blog/Entries/2011/4/28_Rigging_and_Sails.html
The cool thing about it is that the splices you can do them fairly quickly yourself, and the weight aloft is less. It could be that the cost is the same or less, and life expectancy about the same. It is a blend of old school and high tech.
Good luck making your rig safe and sound for some enjoyable sailing. So far, I went out on the week end on our Bombardier 3.8 with each of my teens and my first mate, and we had some fun blasting a few reaches across Ghost Reservoir. Putting the S23 on the water seems like a pretty big project when time is at a premium these days.

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Tom House comments: It is about $500 to replace the standard rigging, Shrouds forestay and bridle, the turnbuckle on the forestay is about $50. If you have turnbuckles on the shrouds instead of chainplate adjusters, the rigging has been modified and you would need to give me pin-pin measurements to keep the same mast rake,etc. The additional shroud turnbuckles are also $50 ea. Ron

MattZ

Stiletto 23

S23 FORESTAY TENSION

Is there an easy way to judge proper forestay tension on an S23? I don't have a Loos gauge or access to one, and I'm concerned I have it cranked up too high.
Should I tighten the forestay turnbuckle hand tight, use a wrench, look for a certain amount of sag in the leeward shroud, or is there some reliable rule of thumb?

Thanks for any advice.

Replied: 2hulls

Stiletto 23

Replying to Matt Z comments: You will need a wrench or channel locks and a screwdriver to get it tight enough. Tighten the forestay as tight as you can until the mast stops rotating and then back it off a little until the mast rotates freely. The tighter the better.
Jim

Replied: MattZ

Stiletto 23

Replying to Jim Moyer comments:
Thanks Jim. As always you're a wealth of knowledge. It sounds like I just need to back it off a bit from where it is.
I have to tell you that one of your posts from a while back talking about how great the 23 is and what you can expect at various wind speeds was a big contributor to keeping my motivation up when more sanding and fairing was the last thing I felt like doing.

Replied: cliff

Stiletto 30

Replying to Matt Z comments: So how tite should the diamond wires be?Mine have my mast bent like a banana

Replied: 2hulls

Stiletto 23

Replying to Cliff White comments: Pre bend worked well with older beach cats with fuller mains and thinner, narrow chord masts. Our masts are just the opposite and our sails are flatter and more powerfull. By the amount of prebend you are using you are losing power over a wider wind range and you are putting unnecessary compression loads into the mast. Unless your main is built with about 6-10 inches of luff curve you are probably distorting the main when sheeted in. If you set the diamond wires just tight you will notice better light wind and off wind performance.

Replied: MattZ

Stiletto 23

Replying to Jim Moyer comments:
More good info, thanks again Jim. My mast is also freakishly pre-bent.

Replied: 2hulls

Stiletto 23

Replying to Matt Z comments: Matt
Hope you start using your boat and enjoying it. I know you put a lot of work into it. We've had a lousy season so far. Just put my boat in the water last week but haven't been sailing yet.
Jim

thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

SAILING SEASON BEGINS

Well, we decided to wake the Stiletto from its winter snooze, raise the mast and shake the dust off.

Well, that was before the 10 inches of new (Bear Lake, Utah) snow that covered everything, dampening our enthusiasm just a bit.

The rest of you guys having better luck, beginning your warm-weather sailing seasons???

Replied: MattZ

Stiletto 23

Replying to Tom House comments:
Equally bad luck here on the other end of the spectrum. In the 2 weeks since I put my boat in the water (for the first time, after working on it for exactly 1 day short of a year so you can imagine my disappointment) temps have been in the 90s, and the wind may have hit 5 kts for 5 minutes once or twice. Except during thunderstorms when it hits 50.

Replied: Clayton

Stiletto 27 SE

Replying to Tom House comments: Sorry Tom, we don't have to put our boats away. Here is a story I posted elsewhere: I call it Sailing with Slugs...

OK, so I thought it was a good idea at first.

I put the Stiletto in a race that was hosted by the local YC (Read all lead mines), haven't raced in quite a few years. As noted in another post, winds here have been blowing 20+. My thought was to sit back a little on the start, foot off and go around the leaners. Well its hard to throttle back when its blowing like that. So, I shoot into the mix. Problem was the upwind mark was so close everyone got there in a couple of minutes. I needed to get outside but couldn't, the boat outside of me tacked on top heading me up and stalling... %$#&. While attempting to gain stearage, the next slug started screaming at us to get the hell out of her way! My kids looked at me with the "What the...?" look, and I decided that racing with slugs was not for me. I radioed the committee and said "we're done here".

A couple of points:
1.) I wasn't a member of their club, I'm sure they thought I was an intruder.
2.) Should have held to my guns and stayed back. It would have been better to stay out of their way. It was supposed to be a fun race anyway. Well at least for some.
3.) I think the screamer probably didn't like the way we blew past them at the start then parked at the mark.
4.) I'm not sure what the rule is about the boat that headed me up at the mark. I was in the process of giving room to the inside boats. Didn't matter to me, I didn't want to hit anyone.
5.) I figured the boats behind me were going to protest me being in their way, so we bailed.

We ended up blasting around the lake averaging 12-16kts. Not to bad if you ask me.

Next day (Sunday), blowing 20 again, one of the bigger leaners came out on the lake, about a 36'er. We were crossing them when they tacked as we approached (onto the same heading as us). I looked at my buddy and said "No, he didn't just do that did he?". You know 2 boats going in the same direction is a race right? We got a puff, (well a little more than that) and sheeted in. Its hard for something doing 7kts to keep up when you are doing twice that. Some things really do work out. I wonder if he told that story back at the club?

Just a bit of rambling after a blustery weekend.
Anyone else have something interesting?

Clayton

dfirth

Stiletto 30

30' STILETTO TRAILER

Does anyone have pics or drawings on the 30' Stiletto trailer? I found a company willing to make one for me

ROBERT

STANDARD

SPEED& DEPTH TRIDUCER (TACKTICK)

HAS ANYONE INSTALLED A THROUGH HULL TRIDUCER 51MM HOLE IN A 27 STILETTO. ANY INFORMATION WOULD APPRECIATED. THANK YOU.

rwosail

stillette 27

DEPTH FINDER TRANSDUCER

Looking for ways to install a depth finder transducer in my 27 foot stilletto

Replied: Tango

Stiletto 27

Replying to Richard Oliver comments:
There are several ways of intalling a sonar transducer inside a hull. The way I prefer is to glue ( with epoxy or Goop) a 2 or 3 in long piece of 4in ABS tubing, faired to the hull. This 'recipient'is then filled with water and the transducer placed in it. This gives very good results with very litte signal loss. I placed the transducer approximately 4 ft in front of the front crosstube.
I prefer this method to one which glues the transducer directly to the hull. By the way, I found that the best sonars are the 'fishfinders' ( approx 100$) which are very powerful ( 600ft) and let you taylor the signal the way you prefer and give you the water temperature.

Replied: rwosail

stillette 27

Replying to Paul Lavallee comments: Thanks for your response Paul. Are you saying that the transponder if placed in water will shoot though the hull even though I think there will be airspace in the core material
Thanks
Richard

Replied: Tango

Stiletto 27

Replying to Richard Oliver comments:
If there was any core material under the transducer, the impedances would not match and the instrument would not work. But the bottom of the Stilettom hulls is solid epoxy/fiberglass ( there is no core material there).

Replied: rwosail

stillette 27

Replying to Paul Lavallee comments: thank you Paul. we will use your recommondation
Richard

frankc

stiletto 27 se

MAST HOUND S27

I am looking over my boat before I launch it. The mast hound looks like it may need to be replaced. I will probably make it OK but better safe than sorry on something like that. Is this a stock part? Can I pick one up at a marine supplier (mail order) I would like to have the exact type so I don’t have to put any more holes in the mast? Anybody?

Replied: cliff

Stiletto 30

Replying to Frank Ciufia comments: Change it,There were 2 types one was like a Hobie and it was junk the other is a custom one that Stiletto sells buy the one Stiletto sells

Replied: Clayton

Stiletto 27 SE

Replying to Cliff White comments: I agree with Cliff, order the correct one from Stiletto. I have also replaced mine. The new one is much heavier. I had the old one repaired and have it as a spare but don't intend to use it as the new one is much better.

Good luck!

lyfordg

Nothing at the moment

STILETTO 23 TRAILER

Dear Friends,
My 23 is sitting on a trailer purchased when I went to pick it up some two days away from home 3 years ago. I have used this single axle trailer, designed for an 18 footer of about the same weight, with two double 16 foot 2x12's athwartships to assemble and launch and then retrieve and disassemble and transport. I bolt the hulls with 4x4's and lash it down for travel. Not ideal, but it works, except for mast raising help, which also is a project.
I have looked at the options and made a collection of photos of the stock trailer and can see that some clever fellows have made rollers and extension beams work for expanding, adapting a good base trailer into a Stiletto trailer. One of my main questions concerns the front U/V-shaped hull supports. Is it best to make these, or are there some off the shelf? Any comments welcome regarding my situation. Thanks.

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Geoffrey Lyford comments: We stopped using the bow chocks
on the single axle 23 trailers because of excessive chafe. It was determined that it was safer to tie the boat to the aft of the trailer and put the main winch cable over the main trailering beam
whether it is a 4x4 or PVC beam directly to the trailer frame.
Then no bow chocks are required and the bows do not get chafed
during transport. If you want some I will send them up, as a matter of fact we are coming up to Saskatchewan with a Stiletto 30 in a couple of months if they let us over the border!

Replied: cliff

Stiletto 30

Replying to Ron Nicol comments: Hi Ron
I think he was asking about the hull supports on the crossbeam that are made of glass,He sounds like he plans on making his own trailer and those are needed on the 23. The front vee blocks that are used on the 27 can be bought at Walmart or any marine store.

Replied: lyfordg

Nothing at the moment

Thanks, Cliff. Yes, the new trailer will need the V-shaped supports under the hull, which hold the hulls upright on the trailer. I surmise one would probably make them with FG, using the hull as a mold with a sheet of plastic protecting the hull.

Saskatchewan is a trek from FL! The Canadian Customs just want the paperwork, and a bit of a cash for the fees, was my experience when I imported my boat. Bring the bill of sale. Good if owner met you at border. Each Canadian has a free import quota that can be deducted from the total value, thus reducing some from the fees. If the trailer is staying, it needs to go to Canadian Tire for certification afterward, and there is another fee payable to Transport Canada, Registrar for Imported Vehicles. The boat itself was minimal trouble.

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Geoffrey Lyford comments: OK, we call those cradles, we have a mold for them and can make you a set. Let me know if you want them. Ron

Replied: lyfordg

Nothing at the moment

Replying to Ron Nicol comments: Thanks, Ron, I will need the cradles, so I will let you know in a bit.

Replied: cliff

Stiletto 30

Replying to Geoffrey Lyford comments: I can E mail you a close up picture of my 23 supports if you want.Also you need a passport to return to the US now when going to Canada,I think you can get there but US will not let you back in.In NY we have a special card you can apply for to go back and forth.

Replied: cliff

Stiletto 30

Replying to Geoffrey Lyford comments: The hull supports came on the stock expanding 23 trailer,I would bet ron and andy may have some or could make some for you.Andy is a great guy to talk to about parts.

Clayton

Stiletto 27 SE

NEW SHEETS

Morning! While doing a clean up on the boat last weekend, I was noticing my sheets looking a little worn and faded. I know the normal size is 7/16". Has anyone used a smaller sheet size? I don't want to get into the removal of the cover and tapering it back to full size thing. I know the original size is easier to hold but how much difference is there? One concern is being able to uncleat the jib sheets using a lighter line especially if its loaded.

Thoughts?

Thanks, Clayton

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Clayton D comments: We use 3/8" Low Stretch line and it works well on both the main and jib sheets. We can supply you with color coded lines so you don't mix them up. i.e. Main- Blue tracer,jib port-red tracer, jib starboard green tracer, traveler white.etc. Ron

thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

INSTALLING STAINLESS STEEL FIXTURES ON AN ALUMINUM MAST

Installing stainless steel fixtures on an aluminum mast

I found this on another forum and thought it might interest some.

Here's a simple trick to prevent electrolysis between a stainless steel mast fixture and an aluminum mast:

If I were going to put a tang on I would take electrical tape and tape the area of the mast that the tang sits on.

You can find electrical tape that's 3-4"s wide. This insulates the stainless from the aluminum.

Take a razor and poke it through the tape where the holes in the mast are.

Use Tefgel to coat the holes in the mast.

Place the tang and using a pneumatic riveter set the rivets. Do not use a cheap hand riveter.

Carefully trim the excess tape. Don't cut into the aluminum.

Using mineral spirits wipe off any excess tefgel. Then you can use something like shoe goo, or aqua seal to dab over the mandrel holes.

Use the right length rivet.

Anyone else have a different approach that you like better?

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Tom House comments: Just coating the fitting and rivets with Tef-Gel is more than adequate. The stuff is expensive, but works very well. Go directly to them in Ft. Lauderdale and buy a caulk tube
instead of paying $10 for a 2 oz. tube at the marine supply store!
See Ultra Safety Systems and click on Tef-Gel

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Ron Nicol comments: try the liquid film on the standing rigging i have had it on the prindle rigging for a year and there is no sign of rust. prior to this application rust began after three months. found it on the internet. the stiletto rigging had to be replaced after two years and now no sign of rust after six months. wipes on and stays on. i forgot to add that earlier . thanks for info.
off to paddle. it really works.

Replied: stiletto

Stiletto 27 GT

Replying to Doug Landis comments: Thanks, I will try that, we usually get at least 3 years out of the standing rigging here in Florida, but it may be more corrosive in your climate. I would still replace it at least every 5 years on saltwater to prevent failure and potential dismasting and injury to crew and you! $500 will seem inexpensive then! Good Sailing! Ron

Replied: thouse

Stiletto 27 Std. Editon

Replying to Ron Nicol comments:

Good call Ron.

Thanks.

Another source said the following:

Hobie used to use an insulator between the aluminum mast and stainless steel fittings.

There were still issues with corrosion.

Now there's stuff that pretty much stops it.

Tefgel. It can be bought in a small syringe with a brush.

On smaller parts like pad eyes forget the tape and coat all the touching surfaces with it.

Also note that there are nylon sleeves that one can simply insert over the rivet.

AS the rivet crushes during installation, the nylon sleeve deforms, still completely encasing the rivet, insulating it from both the aluminum mast and the stainless steel rivet and fixture being attached to the mast.

Anyone have any other thoughts?

Replied: WAYNE

stilleto

Replying to Tom House comments: previous response yes and habit . sewing machines one sailrite for portability and a old industrial consew are two of the machines i have.
saw the info on stainless steel fixtures has anyone tried liquid film. it stopped rust and prevented same on steel framed doors here. worked on outboard and cabinet hinges have had to replace cabinet hardware previously after one year. no rust period. good lubricant.

also has anyone tried automotive clear coat to prevent yellowing of epoxy on fiberglassed canopies. cowling?

pwalsh

Stiletto 27