I've been looking for a picture of a Factory tent set up on a Stiletto. The brochure on line is not very good to say the least. Anyone have one? I've perused the portfolios and didn't find any.
I'm looking for info on a roller screecher. Has anyone found a sail maker that has experience with this type of sail and did a good job? I have the hardware.
We have the best Stilettos available ready to sail. If you want a quality boat at a reasonable price call STILETTO CATAMARANS! We support the fleet with OEM and custom parts. Don't buy a dog, BUY A CAT! Call us first for the best Stiletto you will find.
I've got a Sunbrella "boom-tent" with nylon zippered screen windows that has never been used. It was made by CanvasMart in Pewaukee Wisconsin. Does anyone know what it's worth? Anyone interested?
Replying to Kevin Goodman comments: Hi Kevin. I have no idea what it's worth but when you figure it out please let me know. I am very interested. Is it sized for a 27? Thanks, Mike
I was out Saturday (in my S27) on the Barnegat bay and it was blowing pretty hard. The bracket holding the daggerbord folded over on one side. I don’t know if we hit something (like the bottom) or if it was weak before hand. I removed the whole thing and, fortunately I had some 1’ stainless tubing. I cut the bends out of the old bracket, which is 7/8’ tubing and band aided it by slipping the 1’ over the 7/8’. This is, like I said, a band aide. Does any one have any info, like dimensions and plans for a new bracket or – are they available and at what cost.
Frank; I had an almost identical issue with my daggerboard SS Support struts. My fix was to cut the bent pieces and sleeve them over with 1" tubing. Once I got everything where I wanted it I drilled and riveted it in position then took it to a local SS welder. $75 later I was back on the water. I've never had a problem since!
The best way to work on it is to reove the cockpit and flip it over in your yard. That wqy you can insure that the daggerboard slot is perfectly perpindicular to the deck!
Replying to Bob Klein comments: Thank you for the info. I had some 1" stainless tubing in my garage so I did almost what you said. I cut out the bent sections and sleeved the tubing over; I just through bolted everything. This winter I will probably fab an entire new one. I think I can improve the design slightly. I will post results. thanks again
Replying to Frank Ciufia comments: The collapse of the daggerboard understructure results from a bend in at least one of the tubes of the structure. The bend is most probably due to collision with an underwater obstacle. It is mandatory to inspect carefully the tubes after a grounding or collision and measure the deformation with a straightedge. Any deformation should be immediately corrected after removing the whole bracket. Strenghtening is not necessarily advisable since the bracket acts as a ‘fuse’. If it does not bend, something else, probably the cockpit, will yield. For my part, I have solved this problem by modifying the understructure to allow the daggerboard to swing.
1-There is about 100-150 $ worth of material mostly aluminium. You have to add the cost of labor for the welded version, perhaps 200$ more 2-You have to fit the original structure perfectly before beginning, and keep the alignment during the whole construction ( this is not as easy as it looks) . Furthermore, the welded version is more toutchy. You have to keep these big pieces of l perfectly aligned and take them to the welder several times during construction. The slightest misalignment will make thing awfull later. In this aspect, the bolted version is easier to make. Another drawback is that it is quite a job to remove the daggerboard structure so that you leave it attached to the cockpit; the added weight makes it necessary to have 4 men remove the cockpit 3-Alignment alignment alignment 4-The design was begun 2 years before construction: ‘all’ aspects of the design were considered ( for example the ss axis is covered with plastic ‘truncated football’ that fits in the cylindrical cavity of the board, allowing the board to rotate approx 2 degrees on each side to minimise efforts on the board at the axis. Also the inside of the aluminium plates is covered with plastic sheets to protect the board The only thing I would change is the very small block for lifting: I used a plastic one and I should have used a l one. 5-If you place the axis of the daggerboard at the proper location so that the board is at the same location as the original design or your usual sailing habits, you don’t notice any difference in sailing properties. Since you can adjust the angle of the board, you can correct weather helm ( careful not to place the board at less than 45 degrees since this could load the board unduly: Weather helm should be corrected by reconstructing the rudder mechanism anyways). 6-There is no additional yielding mechanism apart from the rope and cleat( nylon ), you could use some spring mechanism if you fell so, but you don’t have much space 7-The nylon rope is sufficient to keep the board in the desired position: never had to readjust the rope
Replying to Paul Lavallee comments: Hello, I did the same thing but used a much more simple design. Just bolt on two pieces of 1/4 inch Alum plate that go vertically from the bottom of the cockpit to the small SS angle on each side of the original lower bracket. This gives you a very strong, light, simple housing which is open in the front and rear. Then just remove the original lower rear bolt which used to keep the board from swinging aft, put a 3/4 inch SS bolt with bronze flanged bushing through your board and you have a swinging board! This is easily done with the cockpit mounted and boat either on the trailer or even while standing in shallow water. Works like a charm and follows the golden rule- KISS (keep it simple, stupid!)
Replying to Doug Fitzgerald comments: JUST REMOVE THE ORINAL REAR BOLT is a bad idea. In order to control the stress and twist on the bracket this bolt is essential. You are looking for a failure if you do this. I do not recommend it for those who would like to keep the bracket together at speed.
Replying to Ron Nicol comments: Ron, you missed my earlier comments- if the original lower bracket is connected straight up to the cockpit with a 1/4 inch alum plate then you have a fixed triangle between the cockpit, the ss tubing and the new vertical plate thus rendering the rear bolt unneeded- in fact the front bolt isn't needed either. I really don't know why this wasn't done originally- the bracket just hanging there by the ss tubing isn't anywhere near as strong as what I just described. A vertical element of any kind immediately makes the entire assembly more rigid, stronger and well, just better- sorry. I'll take a few pictures when I get a chance.
PS- don't rip on me for stating a simple fact- even though these are great boats, there are many areas for improvement. I have personally modified at least 25 different things on each of my three 27s to make them faster, safer, more comfortable, stronger, easier to sail, etc. etc. Since we put about 10,000 miles of sailing on the boats each year, they have to be set up properly, and factory stock isn't good enough for us, too many weak links and poor design choices. Doug
Replying to Ron Nicol comments: Thanks for being civil Ron, disagreements are a normal part of life, I respect your opinions very much. Now if anyone else wants to improve your fixed daggerboard without going the full swinging modification just do this: Add the vertical 1/4 inch alum plates like I mentioned previously then remove the lower rear bolt that keeps the board from swinging aft and replace it with a 3/16" diameter bolt inside of a 3/4" diameter alum spacer bushing.You will then have a "breakaway" system that allows the board to partially swing aft when you run aground saving all the bent tubing problems. This isn't as good as the full swinging mod since the board will still bind in the cockpit slot if in very shallow water but it is much better than bent ss tubing for every minor grounding. Keep a spare 3/16 bolt and spacer aboard and you're all set to sail away after you run aground.
Another simple "fuse" araingment is to cut the top of the board so that it is flush with the deck and top it with a 1"x4"x~24" board that will fail if you hit something hard.
I hit logs and such in the Chesapeake (always a hazard after spring floods) several times, and it worked without damage. Prior to this change I hit an unmarked dredge pipeline that was ~ 2' under water and it did some damage to the tubes.
I used this araingment for 4 years, until I sold the boat. I broke the topping board several times, but it protected the dager board and the tubes. The deck also stays drier when reaching fast, and it is easier to place a cooler on-deck!
No question, the centerboard convertion is more trick.
Replying to Tom House comments: On my 27 I added one more bar on each side and Had a bridel going to the pins on the main tube,8 foot board ten years ago and still going strong 5 owners later.Think theres some pictures in the port. Found them in 2003 port under Cliff Whites mods
Replying to Tom House comments: Wow! You must have some good friends in the welding and fab business. It costs us that much for the fittings to be milled, let alone the time to cut, refit, weld, electropolish, and install.
Replying to Lee Stauber comments: we have a custom one built for our boat. If you look at the pictures in my previous post, prior to the refit you can see it. It is a triangle that points to the mast, extends the whole width at the back of the canopies. While steering it allows you to look up and see the main and the wind vain. yet still provides tons of shade, so you never have to remove it. The cover was built for about 300 from a local sunbrella company and the piping, well I'm not sure... but thats one idea.
Well folks, We purchased Dos Buenos about 5 years ago. We slowly did some work on her, then this last year we pulled her out of commission to do a full repaint, new canopies, new sails, and new electrical everywhere. Well after a little over a year she is done and sailing again. Here are the shots, from start to finish, and all along the way. By the way, we had the canopies built by a friend using a forming foam and fiberglass. They are ultra durable and stand up to the rigors of the Mexican sun beating down on them. Now the only wish is I hadn't bought a Mercury, I don't recommend them and will never ever ever buy another one. For the conditions our boat lives in a honda is the only solution. But Thanks to ROn for helping with pieces, Taller Bellott boat yard in mexico for the paint, Brian Heffernan for the canopies, Fx Sails for the new sails and no thanks to MErcury marine. enjoy and let me know if you have any questions.
Replying to Tom House comments: Hi I don't mind sharing at all.
The boat company that did the painting was called Taller Bellot out of Puerto Penasco Mexico. True to mexico time they quote us 4-6 weeks from start to finish. it took 6 months. The labor ran us about $1800 for both hulls, upper deck, mast, boom, dagger and rudder casings. The paint we bought up in the states and brought down. I forgot the brand but it came highly recommended and was closer to the 3k range total. so total cost of new paint job. just under 5k.
New windows and new lights from Ron- stock price
Two new canopies made from fiberglass, since the plexi can not stand up to the intense sun and conditions down there. at about 8 years old the old ones were so brittle that you could break them by hand. The new ones which were made with a flexible foam core then glassed weigh almost the same as the old and are durable enough to sit right on them. they ran us $900 for the pair.
F/x Sails- total was 3100. This was for tri-cut radial off shore sail with dual reefs and jib. I couldn't be happier with the quality and performance of the sails. I''ve seen friends with North sails that the jib cost this much alone and I can not see any quality difference between them. http://www.fxsails.com/quoter/selectsail.php?boatID=6133
As for the soon to be anchor (err Mercury) with less the 18 hours on it, it blew it's head unit when a portion of the spark plug ceramic housing broke off and then ricochet around the engine till it was kaput, under warranty they fixed it. Since then it has gone in for three carb cleanings. (bare in mind, I bring gas from the us, flush out all gas after every use, keep tanks and hose very clean, even upgraded the gas filter) but it just can't stand the rigors of sand. it has been runnning around a 25% success ratio since we bought it. Two friends bought hondas at the same time and have never even had to add more oil to it. (not to mention all the local fisherman in Penasco solely use hondas. Nothing else) So it's just been horrible since the beginning.
All other misc parts came from Ron, new dolphin striker, pins, mast pole, etc. Eleectrical lighting through west marine.
We did it all for relatively cheap all things considered, but in the end you can not tell.
Hope that helps, feel free to email me any other questions at clydebetts@cox.net or here. take care
I'm in the process of refinishing a 23. I see that there are cracks in the hull/deck joint, mostly on one hull below and near middle and rear cross beams. Some spots are barely noticeable, in others I can push a putty knife in the crack about an inch. The cracks are about 2 to 10 inches in length.
My plan is to clean them out one way or another as well as I can and mash thickened epoxy in the cracks. After that's done and smoothed I'm considering fairing this seam all the way around both hulls, covering with 3" 8oz e-glass tape, sanding and fairing afterwards.
Does this sound like it would be a bad idea? I don't know if it's necessary to have any flex in that seam and if filling it in would cause bigger problems down the road.
Replying to Matt Z comments: Hi Matt Thats common even on the other boats,I just did my 23,I just sand the groove with folded 80 grit sandpaper or take a mud spreader fold the paper over it and sand the seam ,in bad areas I took a knife and cut out the loose glue.Then I layed the hull on its side and mixed up some 404 and epoxy pored it into the seam area and it was so smooth I barely had to sand it.can only do one side at a time.I did the same thing on my 30 it works great,no need to lay glass all the way around the hull unless you dont plan on sailing till next year lol.
Replying to Cliff White comments: Thank you again Cliff, you're a lifesaver. I have a knack for tearing things apart further than is necessary and ending up with a lot of extra work.
Replying to Cliff White comments: Yes, that's a beauty Cliff, a couple of them in fact. Thanks for the pic of the boat in the straps. The guy that's going to paint mine was asking how to support the hulls while painting them. I thought hanging it from the ceiling would probably be best.
What model of jib furler is on your 23? I've been looking at the Harkens but wasn't sure which one to get. The mod 436 small cruising has a SWL of 2000 lbs. The 435 has a SWL of 950 which doesn't sound high enough. Or is there another brand / model altogether I should be looking at?
Our Current drought has dropped the lake levels so low I can't get the Stiletto off the Lift! Lots of great sailing weather and all I can do is watch everyone else sail. Bummer! Thought about switching to a sling system but I'm concerned about the concentrated pressure of the straps (But first I would have to get the boat off the beams/bunks)
I searched the forum and couldn't find answers to this question, but assume a fair number of people here have dealt with it before considering the age of these boats. I acquired a 23 yesterday that is in need of paint. The original paint is cracking, crazed and peeling in places. I'm planning to strip the entire boat. I've been looking into paint removal methods and being somewhat lazy, would like to avoid sanding. Plus I'm told that if you sand into the kevlar you'll never get a good paint finish, and the distance between the paint and kevlar looks very easy to sand through.
Has anyone used a chemical stripper? What did you use and how did it turn out?
How about a heat gun? The thought of melting resin makes me nervous, but I don't have any experience with using one to remove paint from a boat so it may work fine for all I know.
Lastly, I've been reading a lot tonight about soda blasting. There are videos on youtube of people stripping paint off corvettes effortlessly, and they also do not have gelcoat. However, I also read horror stories of it destroying gelcoat on boats, so it's hard to say if it would be safe to use on a Stiletto. Has anyone here ever tried it?
Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Replying to Matt Z comments: The best thing to do is sand it with a da sander.I use a 8" then finish it with a 6".Just be careful and sand the paint and get it to the primer reseal the boat with a good 2 part sealer and it will be fine.Theses are not built with a mold being sprayed they do have filler from the factory and a stripper would soften that to where you would need to refill those areas,if you get into the Kevlar just use epoxy and reseal it.
Cliff, I want to make more use of the interior of my Std. 27 model & am considering removing the bunks & putting in full length bunks, like on the SE models. -Any suggestions? -Do you still have some core board available? If so, let me know the particulars. -Have you seen any mods to put roller furling on the front crossbeam that looked decent & worked? I would like to fab or buy, to furl the jib at the crossbar. By the way, I DID build an 8' board, and it did improve upwind performance. If I get the ambition, would still like to put in dagger boards. -Are the boards in the 30 the same as on the 23? You did a great job on your 30. Congrats! It's a beauty!! Thanks, Dave E.
Replying to Dave Earl comments: Earl, if you do a search on the Open Forum for "Jeff Bugbee" you will come up with an interesting thread about the roller furling on the cross beam and a man who has made what you are looking for.
Replying to Geoffrey Lyford comments: Thanks for the tip, Geoffrey. I did the search, made the contact and have received some information and pictures with more to come! Regards, Dave E.
Replying to Dave Earl comments: Hi Dave Why not meet me in buffalo and we will sail some day?I still have 1/2" foam airex ,and sheets of Duracore already laid up with pel ply on them,I have 1/2" 3/4 1" 1-1/4" and 1-1/2" thick panels.let me know what you need already glassed and cheaper then marine ply.Also great for bulkheads.shipping would be costly but you can pick them up so you will get the best deal.
Replying to Cliff White comments: Hi Cliff, Thanks for the sailing invite and letting me know the materials you have available! I'll get the plans & materials list up & contact you. Let me know the best way to get in touch. My e-mail is dearl1@rochester.rr.com, phone 585-254-1969. Very handy to be just down the thruway from ya! The materials should fit just fine in the van. We now have (4) stilettos in the Rochester area! Regards, Dave E.
Replying to Matt Z comments: I did a 23 last fall that a friend is sailing now with that same graphics that are on my 30,and have one now Im working on to keep for sailing on the inland lakes.New paint its going to be nice.
Replying to Cliff White comments: Yes, your graphics are great, really completes the package in a very classy way. I've been looking around on the internet, thinking ahead to when the painting's done. If you want flames, skulls, eagles, dragons, tribal designs, etc, your choices are endless. If you want waves or splashes there is next to nothing to choose from.
This question is for Peter Wormwood. After seeing what you did to Cindy's Boat "Dream Date" in the 2009 Portfolio pictures, I've decided to go ahead and convert my upper & lower center board guides to the King Starboard material. I've made a template with a 2" gap that fits snuggly on the thickest part of the Center Board. Do I leave it snug or should I allow for a little play.
Hi I'm looking to replace my mainsail and am inquiring as to the exact specifications. I saw on the stiletto spec. sheet the total area, but my question is what specs do I need to have a replacement cut for the boat... Any help would be much appreciated and I thank you in advance. Good day!
If you haven't already found these, there are several different bits of sail specification info in the online seciton of this forum. Some have more specifics than others.
These include the following:
Stiletto_27 - The Stiletto 27 Specification sheet.
Stiletto 27 Class Sail Measurements - Stock Class Measurements
Stiletto Specifications - Aquired from various Stiletto publications, owner contributions, etc.
Stiletto 27 Sail Specs - Sail specs
I believe these are for pinhead sails.
Perhaps those with square tops could provide more information on what they have tried and offer additional suggestions.
When you get that far, some of us would be interested in what kind of quotes you're getting for your new mainsail.
Replying to Tom House comments: I'm also very interested in your square top measurements.
The measurements for an F-24 main are @ 29'1" x 10'5"-11'4" Has anybody ever thought about using one? Has anybody ever used a longer boom? How hard would it be to correct the weather helm that it generates? (I need to do serious foil work anyway)
Replying to Sean Smith comments: It would be sweet if we could find sails from an existing production class to fit our boats - it would certainly reduce sail costs. HOWEVER - you hit the nail on the head with the weather helm problem. To get rid of it on Dream Date and be able to rake the mast back we moved the front tube and jib tack forward 22", reduced the genoa overlap, and moved the daggerboard aft about 6". A longer daggerboard also helps the problem, but gets tangled up with the boom, when pulled up.
Regarding the size of square tops - according to my sailmaker, this is dependent on the fabric used - a carbon main can support a bigger square top than polyester (dacaron) can...
I am doing maintenance on the pan of a 27' stiletto - where do I get the gasket that goes around the edge of the pan and the gasket for the dagger board well?
STILETTO 27. A DIFFERENT APPROACH TO CANOPY OPENING.
Stiletto 27. A different approach to canopy opening. For some time, I have been thinking of modifying the way the canopies open to give access to the hulls on my Stiletto 27 . The standard way requires to lift the whole 5.5 ft structure and push it forward about 18 in. The canopy is not properly supported either in the open or closed mode, even with the latches on. I was thinking of cutting the canopies transversally about 18 inches from the back. This divides the original canopy in a 4 ft structure which would be bolted or glued to the hull ( canopy housing), and a 18 in structure which would be used as a side lifting door. This door would be fitted on a 18 in track or rail on the external side of the boat ( flat on the ’deck’ or vertically on the side of the canopy housing). Access to a hull requires to lift this ‘door’ one or two inches and slide it forward up to 18 inches. A latch would allow closing the door in any position and particularly locking in the fully closed position. A gutter shaped fibreglass internal arch would give additional strength to the fixed canopy and drain rainwater out of the cabin. Anybody has ever thought about something similar . Any comment is welcome. I do not intend to do that in the near future, just wondering about the feasibility.
Hey all, My 27 was in interesting shape up till this week. I took the crosstubes apart and found zero plastic buttons... and several pieces of large diam PVC pipe... needless to say it didn't collapse well. Think 6 large men and my 6 to 1 main sheet to get it together last fall. So... I'm fabbing some nice new moly impregnated nylon buttons. I cleaned off 20 years of burrs corrosion and junk. Used a handy scotch brite flapper wheel I made for the inside of the large tubes. Now ready to start putting her back together. This is my question... is there anything else that goes in the pockets? My friend used to be a dealer up here in NY and described a collar that goes between the inner and outer buttons acting as a stop. Is that true? What is it? How do I get it in? Thanks guys Sean
Replying to Sean Smith comments: Hi Sean,Yes the split pvc rings stops the tube from being pulled out from the hull.You need to install them between the inter buttons on the tube and the outer ones on the hull,being split they install easy.Spreading the hulls take a little finesse if you get the bow ahead of the stern or the other way around it will not expand or collapse,just work them back and forth and they will go easy.What lake are you on in New York? Im in the Buffalo area.
Replying to Cliff White comments: Hey Cliff, thanks for the confirmation. Do you happen to know how wide the PVC should be? I'm thinkin that a piece about 1.5" wide should do it. Also, I've been racking my brain on how to get it in... The buttons on the hull have got to go in before the tube is inserted and the PVC is supposed to be on the other side of them... Its magic to me.
I'm based in Syracuse and sail on Ontario over on the East side, 1000 islands, Oneida, and sometimes the finger lakes.
Replying to Sean Smith comments: They are only about 3/8 to 1/2 " wide with a about 1/2" piece cut out of it,With the slit in it all you do is twist it around the button on the hull tube and just work it around till its in.There only there as a stop so you dont pull the tube out of the hull.
I'm just about ready to start working on the boat, now that the snow is starting to melt.
My tubes push together and pull apart very very hard.
I'm thinking about pullling them completely apart and checking the condition of my buttons, etc.
I don't have the stuff to make new ones.
Any one know where I can get or by enough to replace them all?
I also liked the notion of remodeling the way the canopies open and close.
Whe we took green water over the front part of ours during my last adventure sail in Mexico, I wished the front part was fixed, giving the boat a bit more time to recover and lift before it moved further aft.
Your idea sounds feasible, since when open, the entire hull opening isn't accessible anyway.
I've got to think about it more.
While we were waiting for the temperature to warm up enough to make sailing more enjoyable and less down right cold, we did a trip to the Grand Canyon.
We just got back fron a white water rafting run.
Great fun.
Lots of work with long periods of rowing, setting up and breaking down camps, and some pretty snazy rapids, beauitful scenery, etc.
Hiking out at Phantom Ranch was long and steep.
In nine miles we gained more than a mile of elevation.
If you like switch-back trials, this is a winneer.
I couldn't believe how many people there were on the trail and how few there were on the river.
I suppose it is clearly a matter of access.
To get in where we spent all of our time, it is either a helicopter, which is verboten, unless it is a rescue craft, a white water raft or it is impossible.
We had everything from hot to snow to rain and of course the wind was always blowing in the wrong direction, making for lots of rowing that builds strong bodies 12 ways.
The commercial trips cost around $3500 for a week. They do everything for you and the rafts are huge and have outboard engines.
Our trip used great 16 foot catarafts, left over from a firends budding rafting business that is now out of business.
Our trip cost a few hundred dollars, and did not have outboard engines.
It make you appreciate a warm, soft bed and a few creature comforts.
Grand adventures and great memories are the pay off for a bit of planning, preparation, work, set backs, re-tooling, etc.
When it all seems to go to sh... look closely and dig deep, you may just find a pony in there somewhere.
All in all, life is great and the best is still ahead.
Hang on, keep your seat belt tight and make sure your arms and legs remain insided until it all comes to a full and complete stop, before disemarking this phase of it all and beginning the next, which should be even better.
Replying to Tom House comments: Tom, I reverse engineered the dimensions for the buttons and posted the sketch in the info section of the website. Take the sketch to a local machine shop and have them fab them up for you. I recommend UHMW Polyethylene or DELRIN. NOT Nylon (as it swells when wet)
I had a similar problem with my tubes so when I disassembled the boat I took a 3' long 1/4" diameter mild scrap steel rod, bent a 3" flat loop back on itself on one end, threaded an old towel/rag through the loop, chucked it into my slow rpm 1/2" drill, and starting with a garden hose and soap, I roto-cleaned the tubes in the hull. They were full of 1) a small mouse hotel, 2) aluminum oxidation, and 30 plain old dirt. When all was done they were clean and shiny on the inside. After a day to dry out I liberally sprayed the tube interiors with multiple coats of Sailkote (McLube). Remember to let each coating dry before applying the next.
When all was done I was able to spread the hulls all by myself with very little effort.
Replying to Bob Klein comments: I'm going to assume that when you coated you only got as far as your arm would take you... no sweat, we're all in the same boat there... my buttons are fabbed out of moly impreg nylon 6... i couldn't find suitable specs on how much expansion i should expect so i gave them some "wiggle room" when i fabbed. i also just plain didn't know about its hydroscopic properties when i bought it. i bought my 2' piece of .75" round from MSC... cheap all in all at about $6 plus $6 to ship. I had prolly 8hrs just in making them between saw lathe and finishing. now to figure out the locks... 4" pvc pipe (schedule 40) fits scary TIGHT on the inner tubes. I haven't been able to find it in a more suitable size... 6" being the next size up. not sure if 6" would be scary tight on the inside of the hull tube. any other suggestions on material for this would be welcome.
Q: I'm going to assume that when you coated you only got as far as your arm would take you... no sweat, we're all in the same boat there...
A: Nope. I was able to coat the entire tube using a small pump action sprayer and an extension wand from a cheapo-weed/bug spreayer. The important thing was the extra-long rotating rod with rag swab attached to the slow rpm drill. It did a GREAT job of cleaning the bore.
Q:..now to figure out the locks... 4" pvc pipe (schedule 40) fits scary TIGHT on the inner tubes.....
A: You want the pipe that best fits the cross tube. Cut a ring of it AND also remove a 1" +/-section cso it's an open ring. This missing piece is how you get it past the buttons; by rotating and sliding together. Not a big deal.
I'm looking for a Stiletto 23 in decent shape, hopefully in the mid atlantic states. Haven't had much luck, if you know of one please let me know.
I've read on the forum here that from 1985 on the boats were made from polyester resin with a foam core. Is there an easy way to tell a kevlar/nomex boat from one made of polester/foam?
Replying to Matt Z comments: One listed in the "For Sale" section here. Not in the Mid Atlantic area but I'm sure the road trip would be a nice one. I drove 900 miles to pick up my Stiletto 27. Great trip and interesting stares on the way back!
Replying to Clayton D comments: Yes, I saw that one and emailed asking for some pics. Haven't heard back. Don't know that I'm crazy about the wing seats and it is a long way, 1100 miles. Thanks.
Replying to Matt Z comments: I helped fabricate some wings for a 23 called Dazzler. I thought it made the boat so much more fun to sail in heavy air. I I ever own another 23, it will have wings.
Catamaran righting, after a capsize has always interested me.
I suppose it is the result of all the beachcat sailing I do, when not goofing off with the Stiletto or working to slay the dragon each day and to make a living to keep the wolves at bay.
I've had the Stiletto in many bazaar conditions.
I've probably pushed it harder than a knot-head, goof-off day sailor or coastal cruiser should.
However, controlling the sheets and choosing the sail configurations has always resulted in controlling the boat, minimizing the risk of a capsize. (That's in addition to battening down the hatches and laying to the sea anchor, when sailing conditions and all else has turned to "donkey dust.
With that said, I thought some might enjoy reading an article about how Farrier has dealt with dumping a boat onto its side.
The boat's ability to "self-right" from a capsize (not turtled) position is dependent upon flooding the lower hull and slacking the tension on the lower shroud.
This allows the weight of the upper hull to rotate the boat back into an upright position. After it achieves this up-righted position, it is just a matter of pumping the flooded ama dry and the boat is back in business (so to speak).
I often sail in very remote places in Mexico's Sea of Cortez. That emphasizes the need to be self-sufficient, self-reliant and able to self-rescue.
I already have floatation (crash) boxes in the nose of both hulls.
I've also been interested in Bob's calculations on how much rigid or inflatable mast-top floatation might be required to keep the mast tip from turtling.
To add a bit more "insurance" to my 27, I've been giving some serious thought to adding some floatation to the aft sections of the hulls. That would help prevent the boat from turtling at the 45 degrees it seems to like when inverted.
However, I don't want to give up interior space.
Lately, with a bit of cabin fever setting in, I considered adding around three or four inches of rgid floatation to the entire underside of my hard deck.
This would be in addition to the floatation and crash boxes already added to the nose of each hull.
The four inches of rigid flotation would also cover those nasty self-drilling fasteners that hold my jib sheet tracks.
Those pesky things are very sharp. They extend a couple of inches on my hard deck's underside. (Boy have they hurt a few times.)
Four inches of under hard-deck rigid flotation to its entire surface should add lots of floatation to the aft end of the boat, without adding much weight or sacrificing interior space. Adding some permanently fixed nylon webbing (fore-to-aft hand-hold) straps would help provide something to hang on to or tie to. That would help one stay with the over-turned boat.
I'm also adding some cinch straps to keep those canopies from being pushed open and breaking free of the boat if capsized.
(BTW, during my last bout with the sea and hanging to a sea anchor...I found the cool shape of the canopies is also very functional. When we had large boarding seas, that washed over the boat from front to back and knee deep...the canopies shape helped deflect the water as it washed over the front half of the canopies. Remind me to avoid those conditions again, if possible.)
I'd think, adding some thickness to the hard deck's underside flotation, along its centerline, could also assist in keeping the upper hull from flooding completely, while adding increased floatation, around which righting could possibly pivot.
If the boat only swamped, it might even help hold the canopies' openings, above the water's surface once the "sea conditoins" moderated a bit. (I'd bet however, a swamped boat would be pulled over by the mast's weight, if wind and sea conditions swamped the boat in the first place.)
That centerline floatation could also be shaped to be a sled for my motor mount, cutting wave tops so they don't slap the underside of the hard deck so hard or the motor's front, when things get hairy as they did the last time I had that "most excellent adventure". (If one just overlooks the 8 hours of sea anchor, 45 knot sustained winds and hairy breaking waves.)
I've already built and field-tested a motor sled using rigid flotation materials. It is so easy and cheap to build, from 4 inch closed cell rigid foam glued up to be thinker and then shaped . It is a "bow" or "V" shaped sled that attaches to my motor mount. It extends about 8 or 10 inches below the bottom of my motor mount in the center and tapers to only about 1 inch, below the mount's sides. This year I'll probably add a fiber glass skin for durability and so I can paint it to match the boat.
In raucous seas, it has really made a positive difference.
If that shape were stretched forward to the daggerboard bracket, I'd think it could possibly help keep the upper hull from completely flooding in a capsize. That would help prevent the boat from completely turtling.
However much of the upper hull remained above waterline, that weight (above water) could also help with righting rotation, using a shroud-extending-system, like the Farrier uses or the old boardless Boston Whaler/Super Cat beach cats.
Even if this didn't work completely and even if the boat turtled anyway, it would add lots more flotation to the boat at its aft end.
That should help keep the boat from its normal inverted 45 degree turtled position.
I'd think if it all turned bad, clinging to the boat's underside until rescued or blown to land, would be much more comfy if the inverted boat was flat rather than 45 degrees.
Is it spring yet???
Do I need a dose of sea water to stave off a bad case of cabin-fever, or does any of this make any sense to anyone?
Replying to Tom House comments: Tom ...you make perfect sense...anyone who has sailed and pushed and flipped cats...knows it can happen....digging in a hull...jamping a cleat and not being able to release.. etc... etc....when I sailed Hobie's and some crew would want to know what would happen if we flipped over ...I would flip the darling over and show them how to right it...to me that's where you are at with all your thinking and figuring....go out and flip it over ....and see what happens...of course get all your electronics off ...get your motor off...gas cans...beer cans....as well as anything that might float away...and have 2 safety boats ready to help you pull it over...have a place to fasten the lines to ....try 1 boat first and then if needed the 2nd.... then pull her over ...I guess the more rigorous test would be to first try it with no boats ....run the anchor line out and then try to winch her over.....just like the little beach cats...it should work....check your ideas out....get some video ...we would all enjoy to watch and learn....and remember ...the Captain goes down with his ship....just kidding.. but rule number 1 is always stay with the boat...the capsize is remarkably slow and easy and no one should get hurt... everyone should wear life jackets...in rough weather as you know all Hell breaks loose and you just hold on and wait ...for the chance when someone will pull you over....and if they can't pull you over from the side ...if you all turtled ...then rig it so you are pulled from the stern and do a flip that way ....have a spare anchor line ready so you don't drift..have good pumps ready to bail you out...I really think the only way for you to satisfy your curiosity ...is to go flip a Stiletto over....go ahead join the club....warm regards
In March of 2009 we had a conversation on this forum about the compression tube falling out on a few boats when sailing. I mentioned that mine would not move and was advised to shave some off. Being the slacker that I am, I never did that but found when I put the boat together this year the compression tube slid into place fine until I tighten the bridle turnbuckle. when the rig is tight there is no motion. My question is... Is my rig to tight? I always snug it to the point of all wires being tight but the mast still turns free without turning the mast ball and shaft (thanks to grease). Is there a problem with over tightening a Stiletto 27.
Replying to Brian Outten comments: Your rig sounds about right as long as the mast rotates fine.Im glad you didnt get the grinder out thats not the way to fix things.
Replying to Cliff White comments: Thanks Guy and Cliff. I was fairly sure it was, but it is hard to tell with those turnbuckles. You could almost twist until the line snaps w/o to much resistance. By the way Guy, set up took me a lot longer than 20 seconds... but your post gave me the motivation to go ahead and do it.
Your standing rigging is probably fine. When sailing your leeward stay should be a little slack.
The compression strut should not come out if you have the tramp installed. I have only had my strut come out when I took the tramp off for repair and with the boat moving on the mooring it slipped out. If you remove the tramp, remove the compression strut.
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